Indian label Uncooked Mango debuts at London Vogue Week

Yesterday morning (23 February 2026), tons of of spherical glass containers lined the parquet flooring of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Lindley Corridor. Inside them lay tiny garlands of creamy mogra (jasmine) flowers. The vessels marked out the runway for Uncooked Mango’s debut on-schedule London Vogue Week present, ‘It’s Not About The Flower’. The modern Indian label, based by textile designer Sanjay Garg in 2008, was invited this season by the British Vogue Council’s Laura Weir. Appointed as CEO of the organisation in January final 12 months, throughout A/W 2026’s opening speech the earlier Friday, she famous that over the previous 12 months, the organisation had been working to reposition London Vogue Week as a platform for artistic ‘world dialogue’, which is actually broadened by way of the invitation of Uncooked Mango.

It’s a sentiment that Garg reiterates. ‘I do really feel near the town. London’s very cosmopolitan. On any given day, you may hear a dozen totally different languages being spoken on the road,’ he instructed Wallpaper* forward of the present. He additionally defined that the topic of British imperialism doesn’t get swept beneath the rug. ‘Folks right here don’t maintain again, whether or not it’s conversations in regards to the nation’s colonial previous or capitalist current. It’s residence to all of those views, which battle with one another. I feel all of those resonate on some stage with Uncooked Mango. There’s an imperfection to it, and I discover that compelling,’ he mentioned.

Although usually romanticised by western audiences, the flower garland is, as Garg says, ‘easy, utilitarian, and so acquainted it nearly exists inside the unconscious of Indian visible tradition.’ Accompanying the ‘It’s Not About The Flower’ assortment was a pocket-sized picture e book of the identical title, which had been distributed to the A/W 2026 visitors by way of their seats. ‘I haven’t seen a e book that paperwork this custom of the garland within the Indian subcontinent, so we simply went forward and did it,’ he says. ‘We commissioned varied photographers who travelled the size and breadth of India, capturing the garland and its prevalence in our a number of cultures.’

Right here, the garland is depicted in temples and church buildings; births, deaths, weddings and funerals all function. ‘When somebody buys a brand new automobile, they have fun it with a garland,’ says Garg. If there’s an vital event within the residence, we place garlands on the doorway; and these garlands should not at all times simply fabricated from flowers – there are garlands of beads, banknotes, even spices and banana leaves. We wished to have fun the garland in the identical means that garlands mark the significance of what holds which means to us. It’s not about one particular person flower; it’s in regards to the plurality. The association, as a substitute of the singular disembodied motif. The weave and the construction, as a substitute of the golden threads on the floor.’

In keeping with Garg, this e book is ‘a glimpse of a bigger venture’ but to return. ‘With out entering into specifics, I can say we have now lots of issues within the pipeline,’ concludes Garg. ‘Not all of them could also be associated to the “calendar” that trend manufacturers are anticipated to observe. We don’t observe a timeline or trend seasons. Our work is a response to an inside pursuit: what excites us, what must be explored, what holds which means. Among the issues developing have been in improvement for years, and we are able to’t wait to share them with you.’