Giant Bevels With a Shopmade Router Jig

Lately I used to be commissioned to construct a spherical kitchen desk with a considerable underbevel. This introduced up a couple of challenges. Because the desk was too cumbersome to elevate onto a noticed, I wanted to carry the software to the fabric; my plunge router appeared like the proper possibility. Because the bevel was over 45° and bigger than any industrial bit might lower, and since I wished some flexibility for future initiatives, I made a decision to make a jig that might be adjusted to totally different angles.

The jig I constructed, which consists of a base and a sled, is much like ones used for flattening slabs, with a few further options. The adjustable arms connecting the sled to the bottom mean you can lower totally different angles with the identical jig. And the 2 shoulder bolts in threaded inserts on the backside of the jig act as an edge information to maintain the bevel constant across the curve.

Construct the jig across the router

To make all of the components, you solely want half a sheet of good-quality 3/4-in. plywood and a small quantity of {hardware} that’s extensively obtainable at dwelling facilities. I begin by ripping all body components to measurement, being certain to order sufficient materials for the baseplate and router-sled base. After I rip lengthy strips for my frames, I crosscut them to measurement with a chopsaw. To find out the inside width of the router sled, I exploit the width of the router base plus 1/32 in. for some play. These dimensions are particular for the Festool 1400 router however will be adjusted to suit any plunge router. The bottom meeting width is dictated by the skin width of the sled.

Clearance is essential

After I lower every part to measurement, I label all my components so I don’t get them combined up. Because the sides of the sled information the router, the heads of the T-bolts should be inset. I lower a shallow dado for every one. With a dado stack within the noticed, I make two dadoes on the within face of every sled facet. I then take them over to the drill press and drill a 1/4-in. gap within the heart of the dadoes for the T-bolt to move via.
I add blocks to the entrance finish of the sled sides utilizing cyanoacrylate glue to carry them in place. When the jig is assembled, the blocks will act as spacers, protecting the adjustable arms in aircraft. I proceed the 1/4-in. holes for the T-bolts from the sled sides via the blocks.

Once more on the drill press, I drill holes for the threaded inserts on the bottom the place the indexing pins will go (which is less complicated to do now than after meeting). I drill these 3/8-in. holes with a brad-point bit. I put a dab of cyanoacrylate glue within the holes to ensure the inserts keep cosy, and with a closing tightening of the Allen wrench, it’s time to construct the sled and base.

-Billy Hoysgaard is a furnishings maker in Ipswich, Massachusetts.

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