Chris A. Minick was featured within the article “Commited Contributors” from subject #323.
Minick has been certainly one of Fantastic Woodworking’s most valued wood-finishing specialists over the past 50 years. However maybe much more invaluable than Minick’s full-length articles have been the considerate, customized solutions he gave to tons of of readers who requested very particular questions. Listed here are a few of them.
What are the deleterious results finishes have on archivally stored pictures and uncommon books?
What sorts of deleterious results can woods, wooden supplies, and finishes have on archivally stored pictures and uncommon books? Do public archives, such because the libraries on the Smithsonian Establishment, use particular woods or finishes in and on their show and storage instances?
Chris Minick replies: Manufactured wooden merchandise, wooden finishes, and even strong wooden all “off-gas” supplies which are probably harmful to pictures and uncommon books. Formaldehyde vapors emitted from manufactured wooden merchandise, comparable to particleboard, MDF, and hardwood plywood, are significantly detrimental to paint pictures. Consequently, these widespread building supplies needs to be prevented when constructing show or storage instances for pictures and books. The Higher Midwest Conservation Middle of the Minneapolis Institute of Artwork recommends that metallic cupboards with a baked enamel end be used for storing uncommon pictures and books. If you show books and pictures, you need to isolate them from any completed wooden by mounting them with archivally acceptable photograph or e-book mounts. Museum-quality mounting supplies are normally obtainable from massive art-supply shops or by mail order from College Merchandise Inc. I don’t know of any particular or secret ending supplies used on museum show instances. Normal air-drying polyurethane varnishes are routinely utilized by many massive museums for ending show instances. The finishes are allowed to completely treatment earlier than the case is used. Remedy instances for ending supplies are surprisingly lengthy, usually involving a number of months.
I’ve tried to re-glue my belt sander belts with many various adhesives, together with epoxy, however to no avail. Is there any technique for repairing these belts?
In my store on the island of Roatan within the Caribbean, I do fairly a little bit of case work that requires belt-sanding of very exhausting woods comparable to rosewood and lignum vitae. I discover that utilizing any sanding belt coarser than 100-grit creates a warmth buildup that usually causes the belt to separate on the glue line. I’ve tried to re-glue my belts with many various adhesives, together with epoxy, however to no avail. Is there any technique for repairing these belts?
Chris Minick replies: Normal abrasive belts are sometimes bonded or spliced large a phenolic adhesive system. Sadly, phenolic adhesives are brittle and never significantly warmth tolerant; underneath heavy sanding masses, me glue bonds fatigue and me splice separates. Verify me glueline in your damaged belts. Darkish crimson or black gluelines point out a phenolic adhesive. Drew Langsner replies: In 1975-1977, I made and bought tons of of the identical kind of hayfork that you simply ask about. At one higher-quality belts are spliced with a extra versatile heat-resistant urethane adhesive. Urethane splices are characterised by clear or white coloured glueline. These belts value a little bit extra however are designed to resist the pains of heavy manufacturing sanding. Procedures for making sanding belts in d1e store have been offered in Fantastic Woodworking #94 by Invoice Skinner (p. 44) and Robert Vaughan (p. 45). Both technique can be utilized to restore your damaged belts. Remember although, me restore will expend among the belt. Anticipate to lose about one belt dimension; d1at is, a repaired 3×24 belt must be downsized to suit a 3×21 sander. In me long term, you might be higher off throwing away me damaged belts and changing them with high-quality urethane bonded sanding belts.
I exploit water-based polyurethane varnish, and the comb marks hold displaying. In different phrases, I find yourself with a tough end. Are you able to assist?
I exploit water-based polyurethane varnish, and the comb marks hold displaying. In different phrases, I find yourself with a tough end. Are you able to assist?
Chris Minick replies: Brush marks within the end movie consequence when the end dries earlier than it has had an opportunity to stage. Normally it is a results of inadequate wet-finish thickness or poor brushing method or a mix of each. Apply a easy, even layer of end, the thickness of three sheets of paper, with a minimal of brush strokes. The comb marks at this thickness will move collectively earlier than the end dries. From the beginning, I at all times measure the viscosity of the end. Excessive-viscosity finishes present brush marks and streaks, whereas low-viscosity finishes are inclined to run, sag, and drip. With most finishes, a viscosity of roughly that of half-and-half cream flows effectively. Thinning the end with the producer’s really useful solvent, which is water for water-based finishes, generally is important to realize the correct brushing viscosity. Earlier than dipping the comb into the varnish, I moist the bristles within the solvent, which prevents dried end from build up on the base of the comb. The fabric ought to move from the comb onto the wooden in an excellent sheet of moist end. After coating the entire panel, stage out the uneven areas by frivolously dragging the bristle suggestions of the unloaded brush by the moist end. Between every coat, I usually scuff-sand with 220-grit paper to take away nibs or mud specks. Three or 4 coats of end are about proper for many initiatives.
Are you able to recommend a end that’s secure to make use of indoors? With out air flow?
In the course of the winter, it’s too chilly to complete something in my unheated store, so I both have to attend till spring or end in my kitchen. I appear to have extra luck with hand-rubbed finishes, and I particularly like oils. Are you able to recommend a end that’s secure to make use of indoors? With out air flow?
Chris Minick replies: Ten years in the past the selection of finishes that might be utilized with0ut ventilating the room was severely restricted. Not so immediately. End producers have developed low-odor, nonflammable water-based finishes and stains that rival their solvent-based counterparts in protecting high quality and ease of software. Most water-based finishes are designed for brush or spray software however will be wiped on with a slight change in wiping method. The traditional strategy of flooding the wooden with oil, ready quarter-hour after which wiping off the surplus end doesn’t work with water-based finishes as a result of they dry a lot sooner than conventional wiped-on oil-based finishes. A greater technique is to wipe on a coat of water-based end with a lint-free rag, then instantly wipe off the surplus earlier than the end begins to dry. A number of coats are wanted to type a big end movie, however the speedy drying time permits six or eight coats to be utilized in in the future. A number of manufacturers of water-based finishes can be found, however I’ve discovered that Basic Finishes EF line of finishes and stains works greatest for wipe-on software.
Fantastic Woodworking Advisable Merchandise
Diablo ‘SandNet’ Sanding Discs
Whereas Diablo’s SandNet disks carry out equally to traditional paper abrasives when it comes to materials elimination and floor prep (with some exceptions on the decrease grits), they make retaining your work floor and work space clear a lot simpler, due to the good mud assortment attainable with them.
Zissner Seal Coat
Nice as a sanding sealer, and as a closing end.
Osmo Polyx-Oil
“If I had to decide on certainly one of these hard-wax oils to maintain readily available, it could be Osmo Polyx-Oil. It’s comparatively reasonably priced and really simple to use.” -Adam Godet
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